Front Axle Securements

FRONT AXLE TOW STEP-BY-STEP

NOTE

Before starting a front axle tow, be sure to chock the wheels of the power unit and casualty.

1. CHOOSE THE CORRECT FORKS FOR THE AXLE THAT YOU’RE GOING TO TOW WITH.

Choose the correct depth and the correct width of fork.

2. INSTALL THE FORKS INTO THE RECEIVERS.

If a double pick is necessary (if you can’t get the forks under the axle if the axle is too low), WreckMaster recommends turning the forks side-ways and picking the casualty up by either the leaf spring or the spring. Pick it up just high enough to be allow space to crib under the tires of the casualty.

3. LOWER THE UNDER-REACH.

Turn the forks so that the high side is on the front-low side of the back.

4. KICK THE UNDER REACH OUT UNTIL THE FORKS ARE DEAD CENTER OF THE ‘U’ BOLTS.

If this is not possible, go just outside those ‘U’ bolts.

5. CHAIN THE FRONT AXLE.

Use 2 chains  (6 ft long), with a coupler ring on one end.

  • Pass the coupler ring up over the spring pack (from the front of the axle up from the inside of the spring pack over to the outside)
  • Hang the ring on the back side of the axle just below the axle shaft. (Do this on both sides)

NOTE: Make sure that your chains are of the right size and grade and are of the Working Load Limit that is adequate for the casualty that you’re towing.

6. EXTEND A RATCHET BINDER AND RUN THE TAIL OF THE CHAIN AROUND THE RECEIVER.

 

  • If you have inverted hooks on the receiver, you can run it right in the center of the two hooks on the front side of the receiver.
  • If you don’t have inverted hooks, run it around the edge of the receiver right on the tow bar.

7. BRING THE CHAINS UP BACK TO THE AXLE.

The tail of the chain should go inside the coupler ring toward the center of the axle on both sides.

8. USE THE RATCHET BINDER TO GRAB A LINK AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET TO THE COUPLER RING ONE SIDE. 

On the other side, pull the chain as tight as you can by hand (try to get a link as close as you can to the coupler right on that side).

9. TIGHTEN THE RATCHET TO TAKE THE SLACK OUT OF THE CHAINS.

Be sure to shake the ratchet to help seat the chains around the axles.

10. RATCHET IN  FULLY UNTIL TIGHT.

A folding ratchet tends to work best as it takes it out of the way once you get it tight.

11. RAISE THE CASUALTY UP & REMOVE THE CRIBBING.

Bottom of the lifted tire in line with the center of the rear axle of the power unit.

12. ATTACH THE SECONDARY ATTACHMENTS.

Remember to cross them and to leave enough slack for turning radius.

13. STRAIGHTEN AND SECURE THE STEERING WHEEL. 

At this point place the stop, turn, and running lights to the back of the casualty.

14. MEASURE THE HEIGHT FOR BRIDGE CLEARANCE.

SPRING HANGER ATTACHMENT

The benefit of using this attachment is you’re not going as far back as the axle. This happens right at the front corners of the casualty, which reduces over-hang. Since you’re not reaching as far under the vehicle, you’re actually lifting less weight, which increases your tow capacity.

REMOTE BRAKES

The remote brake is a device that has a t-bar on top with two hoops which attach directly to the steering wheel. You are able to adjust this bar to accommodate to different distances between the steering wheel and brake on different casualties.

Notice the tab at the bottom of the piston on the remote brake that hooks directly to the brake pedal. The adjusters are meant to find the threshold of the casualty so that they can match the braking of your power unit. At the top of the piston there is a receptor for the service air line.

REMEMBER

Whenever you alter a casualty in any way, notify the service attendant that an alteration has been made.